Tucked where the Ardèche river country meets the first foothills of the Cévennes, Les Vans is a lively little market town known well beyond the region for its Saturday market. It's also the natural gateway to the Bois de Païolive, a forest of holm oaks scattered with weathered limestone boulders, criss-crossed by miles of walking trails. With bustling lanes, shaded café terraces and wild nature right on its doorstep, Les Vans suits both an easy afternoon stroll and a full day out, about 15-20 minutes' drive from Les Cabritas.
One of Ardèche's best-loved markets
The market at Les Vans is held every Saturday morning, and its roots go back to the 15th century, when the town was already a trading crossroads between the Cévennes and the Languedoc. Today, between 70 and 100 producers and craftspeople set up stalls in the off-season, rising to as many as 200 in high summer, selling Picodon AOP cheese, goat's cheese, honey, olive oil, chestnuts and other Cévenol specialities. Its friendly, distinctly local atmosphere, well away from purely tourist-oriented markets, earned it the title of second most beautiful market in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in 2020.
The Bois de Païolive, a 180-million-year-old rock maze
Just outside Les Vans begins the Bois de Païolive, a forest of over 1,500 hectares spanning the Ardèche, Gard and Lozère departments, where limestone laid down 180 million years ago has been carved by erosion into an extraordinary maze of boulders, fissures and karst pavement. The most famous formation, the Rocher de l'Ours et du Lion, is a triple arch said to resemble two animals locked face to face. Traces of human occupation more than 50,000 years old have been found here, from rock shelters to dolmens, making the Bois de Païolive as rich in history as it is in nature.
Good to know before your visit
If you're coming for the market, aim to arrive early on Saturday morning for the best choice and to beat the summer crowds. For the Bois de Païolive, wear sturdy shoes: the limestone terrain is uneven and can be slippery. From Les Cabritas in Saint-Alban-Auriolles, allow about 15-20 minutes' drive to reach Les Vans, easily combining a morning at the market with an afternoon walk in the forest.
Practical information from Les Cabritas
- Distance from Saint-Alban-Auriolles: about 15-20 minutes' drive
- Best time to visit: Saturday morning for the market, spring and autumn for hiking
- Ideal for: families, local market lovers, hikers, nature lovers
Want to discover Les Vans, Gateway to the Bois de Païolive from your Ardèche gîte?
Les Cabritas Sud-Ardèche welcomes you in Saint-Alban-Auriolles, in the heart of Southern Ardèche, for a comfortable stay with a private pool, just steps from the region's most beautiful sites.
Check availability